On May 18th, DisplayLink released their latest version 6.3 Windows drivers. This single driver supports all USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 generation DisplayLink-based products (including all USB graphics products from Plugable), on Windows XP SP2 and later, and Server 2008 and later.

We’re recommending this driver for all USB 3.0 generation products (Like our Plugable USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter). And it’s a good upgrade for USB 2.0 users, too.

The largest improvements for existing users of any DisplayLink-based device, including USB 2.0 ones, are:

1) Much better support in Windows Vista/7 Basic mode (Aero off). While this is a corner case, it’s a huge amount of work on DisplayLink’s part, and will save a lot of frustration for those intentionally or unintentionally dropped into Basic mode by Windows.
2) Better performance / resolution scalability on slower CPUs by avoiding an extra copy for every pixel (introduced earlier in 6.x series)
3) Bugs and other issues resolved

Here are the details from DisplayLink’s release notes, ordered by our perceived importance of the improvement (based on our support cases here at Plugable).

Fixed issues since R6.2 (from DisplayLink’s release notes)

On Windows 7/Vista WDDM Basic, video is not supported. It may work in some
cases but exhibits poor performance. It may stop working after an update from
Windows Update that affects the graphics subsystem. (2028,1609, 3883)

On Vista and Windows 7 in Basic Mode, video will not play on DisplayLink
screens after installation until the PC is rebooted. In Aero mode no reboot
is needed before video will play. (4432)

Occasionally on Windows 7, applying a layout change involving DisplayLink
screens can change the resolution of or turn off one or more screens. To
recover, press the Windows+P keys and select a different setting. (6010, 8741,
9768, 8618, 9956, 10739, 12300, 12715, 13166, 13167, 13226, 13296, 13334)

Some systems may not boot into Windows when DisplayLink device is connected.
(13657)

All screens are black after several layout changes on some machines. (13550)

On some systems all displays may be black or flashing when resuming from
display power save. (13582, 13471)

Sometimes changing mode or layout position of a DisplayLink monitor may fail
with a “Cannot write to specific device” message in the system tray. To recover
replug the device. (13517)

Optimized for Video option removed from Devices and Printers. (13746)

Sometimes all monitors can get blank if trying to mirror two DisplayLink
monitors connected to the system. (13355)

Sometimes enabling previously switched off main monitor may cause all displays
to flicker. (13149)

Sometimes a blue screen can occur when disconnecting DisplayLink device while
having another monitor connected to laptop’s main VGA/DVI port. (13256)

PowerDVD 12 crashes with DisplayLink software installed. (13668)

USBCV tests not passing (13879, 13896, 13878)

Repeated replugging of certain Display Monitors can cause indeterminate
behaviour. (13581)

Failure to detect some hot swapped DVI monitors. (13597)

Fullscreen Direct X Metro applications will be software rendered on DisplayLink
and non-DisplayLink screens

DisplayLink USB 3.0 generation (DL-3×000) fixes

Audio on DL3x00 devices is not automatically default when first connected to
Windows XP systems. (13511)

Occasional failure in resuming from sleep for DL3x00 devices. (13440)

Occasionally after installation the Ethernet driver for the DisplayLink device
will not load. Unplug and replug to recover. (12050)

Wrong audio jack information. (13496)

On some Windows XP systems connecting a network cable to a DisplayLink device
causes the address bar of Windows Explorer to start blinking. (12568)

In particular circumstances a DL3x00 device can drop from SuperSpeed to High
Speed USB. (13769)

USB 3 connection dropping to USB 2 during power state transitions with some
DL3x00 devices. (13769)

Sometimes a DisplayLink monitor connected through DisplayPort may flash after
a resolution change. (13342)

DisplayPort monitor may remain black after being connected to a DisplayLink
device. (13577)

HDMI audio stops playing after some time. (13307)

HDMI compliance timing fails at resolution 640 x 480@60. (13652)

On some systems using Renesas USB 3.0 host controller disconnecting the
DisplayLink device while playing video may cause system to hang for up to
2 minutes. System will automatically recover after that time. (13364)

Audio not available on DisplayPort monitors immediately after drivers
installation. (13580)

Ethernet on DL3x00 devices unreliable when connected to specific Gigabit
Ethernet switches. (13161)

Default volume on DL3x00 devices too high. (13608)

Ethernet connection dropping out under heavy load on 10Mb networks. (13688)

Supported Operating Systems

This release can be installed on the following operating systems:

– Windows XP SP2 (32-bit edition only)
– Windows XP SP3 (32-bit edition only)
– Windows Vista SP1 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows Vista SP2 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows 7 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows 8 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows Server 2008 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
(This OS has received limited testing)
– Windows Server 2008 R2
(This OS has received limited testing)

Download and Support

Download the latest DisplayLink drivers here: http://displaylink.com/support/downloads.php

If you have any problem at all with any Plugable brand device and the DisplayLink 6.3 drivers, please let us know.

Comment here or email support@plugable.com anytime. We’re here to help!

This new adapter is a big step forward in several ways:

• Among the first product to launch with the latest DisplayLink DL-3500 USB 3.0 / 2.0 chipset.
• SuperSpeed USB 3.0 lifts the lid on performance. Enables a max theoretical throughput of 5000 Mbps vs. 480 Mbps for USB 2.0.
• Features a completely re-engineered 6 layer PCB design that is *small*. About half the size of our smallest USB 2.0 generation adapters. The adapter fits nicely inline with the cable,its weight doesn’t create any pull when hanging mid-air, and it doesn’t clutter the desk. You’ll be shocked at what this little adapter can do.
• The adapter works with older USB 2.0 Windows systems (at USB 2.0 speeds), with no problems mixing and matching USB 2.0 and 3.0 adapters on the same system (using the same common DisplayLink driver).
• The USB 3.0 generation of products is Windows-only for now. On Windows, you get all the great multi-monitor functionality, without compromise — and now with better performance in higher resolutions and with video.

The Plugable USB 3.0 HDMI / DVI Graphics Adapter product page has a lot more information. But for a start, check out the following videos.

The video below shows unboxing the product and a little intro.

And this 2nd video shows a bit more depth — plugging the adapter in, installing drivers, and tips for using the product.

We’re very excited about the potential of this great new product. Feel free to comment with any questions!

Plugable USB 3.0 to HDMI / DVI Adapter for Multiple Monitors up to 2048×1152 / 1920×1200 Each (DisplayLink DL-3500 Chipset)

Product Details

$69.99

The most common use is for single-cable docking of a laptop to all the USB peripherals on your desk (quick and easy to come and go). But it’s also useful as an all-USB KVM solution in combination with a USB switch like this, or as a powered, daisy-chainable USB thin client in combination with Windows Multipoint Server 2011, Userful Linux 2011, or coming versions of open source Linux.

And now, because of increased production volume, we’re able to drop the price. Previously $89.95, the Plugable UD-160-A is now just $79. Just check out the product reviews on Amazon if you’re curious about what other people are using it for, and their experiences. And feel free to comment if you have any questions. We’re here to help!

Plugable USB 2.0 Universal Laptop Docking Station with DisplayLink DVI/VGA up to 1920×1080, Audio, Ethernet, and 4 Available High-Speed USB 2.0 Ports

Product Details

$79.00

QPBZ4EUN77Z2

“Bought this as a powered USB hub so that an iPhone and iPad could be connected to a MacBook Pro and charge both. Does not work.”

“So much for a ‘powered’ usb hub, it doesn’t power my iPad …, which defeats the purpose of me even getting it.”

It seems like it should be so easy. You have a hub that is plugged into an electrical socket. Your iPad is plugged into the hub. It should recharge. But it says, “Not Charging.” Why?

It all has to do with how electrical current is supposed to flow through USB ports and with confusion caused by proprietary behaviors that Apple has implemented in its product ecosystem that lead to different recharging results in seemingly identical scenarios.

If you want to avoid the answer to the “why” question and just know how to charge your Apple iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch when it’s connected to a self-powered hub, here are your two options.

Option 1: The iPad/iPhone/iPod is connected to a hub that is plugged into an electrical outlet and a computer simultaneously. The Apple device will recharge by pulling current at a rate of 500 milliamps when attached to this hub (the hub’s power supply must have enough amperage to provide this current).

• The iPhone and iPod both will indicate they are charging in this state. Total recharge time will be about half as fast as when they are plugged directly into a Mac’s USB port or an electrical outlet.

• The iPad will display “Not Charging” in this state if its screen is enabled. Put the screen to sleep with the Sleep/Wake button on the iPad’s exterior, and the device will start to charge. In our tests, an iPad charging at a 500-milliamp rate will add about 10% to its battery meter every 1.5 hours.

Option 2: The iPad/iPhone/iPod is connected to a hub that is plugged into an electrical outlet but not a computer. The Apple device’s power must be completely turned off for the device to recharge when attached to this hub. Here are step-by-step instructions.

1. Plug the iPad, iPhone, or iPod into the hub. If the device was previously shut down, it will turn on upon sensing power from the hub.
2. Perform Apple’s shutdown routine for the device. You can’t  just let the screen go blank. You need to hold down the physical Sleep/Wake button on the exterior of the iPad, iPhone, or iPod until you see the red arrow on screen that you can swipe to turn off the device.
3. Swipe the red arrow to complete the shutdown process.
4. Once turned off, the Apple devices will draw power through the hub at the 500-milliamp rate.

Please be aware that if you attach multiple Apple devices at one time to your hub in either scenario that you might start to exceed the amperage available in your hub’s power supply. We cannot verify charging will occur once this has occurred.

In our tests, when we overloaded the available power supply, we saw varying results in how the attached devices consumed power. However, we did observe that iPhones and iPods (not iPads) still would charge–albeit very slowly–when drawing power at the 100 milliamp rate.

If you want to know more about how USB power works and where Apple deviates from the USB 2.0 standards, read on.

USB Power Primer
The USB 2.0 spec permits devices to pull current at a default rate of 100 milliamps from a USB 2.0 port (we’ll call this the host)–enough to power a mouse but hardly enough to charge an iPad battery.

If a USB 2.0 device needs current at faster rate than 100 milliamps to function, it is allowed to negotiate with the host to increase its consumption rate to a maximum of 500 milliamps from the host’s port.

When a device tries to draw more current than is available to the host–often described as overcurrent–you can end up with a warning that there isn’t sufficient power to meet the device’s needs. This warning might appear on the host (e.g., a popup in the Windows taskbar, like the one shown to the right). But others, like the Mac, disable the port without any warning, often creating the erroneous impression that the devices are broken. They aren’t–they’re just not able to draw any power from the port anymore. A reboot re-enables the port, but the port will shut down again if you don’t take any action to reduce the power consumption by the mix of devices attached to the port.

When multiple devices are connected to a single USB 2.0 port via an unpowered hub, it can lead to an overcurrent situation, especially because all the devices attached to the hub have to share the 500 milliamp current available through the host’s port. The hub can only split the available current, not multiply it.

A self-powered USB 2.0 hub–that is, one with its own AC adapter–can alleviate this situation, because it can tell the host, “Don’t worry, I can take over as the provider of the current that these devices want.”

For example, if the hub’s the power supply can deliver current at a rate of 2.5 amps (100 milliamps = .1 amps), and there are five ports on the hub, the host now can let each USB 2.0 device attached to a port on the hub negotiate for up to the USB 2.0 maximum of 500 milliamps (2.5 amps / 5 ports = 500 milliamps / port) without exceeding the hub’s power capacity.

When There’s No Host
When a self-powered hub is plugged into an electrical outlet but not connected to a host–think of it as a USB-based power strip in this configuration–it becomes wildly unpredictable how devices attached to the hub will behave when trying to draw power. The original USB 2.0 spec just didn’t envision how important USB-based power consumpution would become.

Without guidance from the spec on what to do in this scenario, device manufacturers can implement whatever behaviors they desire. Some devices will pull power at the same rate as they do when attached to a host-connected hub. Other devices will downgrade to the 100 milliamp default. Certain devices may try to exceed the 500 milliamp limit in the USB 2.0 spec–not necessarily a bad thing for improving device charging times.

In the case of the Apple iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch, we saw different power consumption behaviors depending on whether the devices were powered on or off. When powered on, they could draw only 100 milliamps of power. When turned off, as explained earlier, they would draw 500 milliamps of power.

This image shows an iPad's power consumption when plugged into a self-powered hub that has no data connection: On the left, the iPad in a powered-on state is drawing 100 milliamps from the hub. On the right, the iPad in a powered-off state is drawing nearly 500 milliamps from the hub. Click the image for a larger view.

If you have questions about whether your specific phone, tablet, or handheld device will charge if it’s plugged into a hub that’s being used like a power strip, the only way to know is to plug the device into the hub and see what happens.

Apple Bites Back
Apple makes great devices, but it also makes the USB-charging situation even more confusing. As explained, the iPad, iPod, and iPhone will recharge when pulling 500 milliamps of current. But Apple has engineered these devices to prefer to pull more than USB 2.0-specified  maximum of 500 milliamps. However, to do so, the devices must be connected directly to USB ports that have been customized with Apple’s proprietary charging extensions.

Click the image to go to Apple's support document that explains the proprietary USB charging behaviors in Apple's product ecosystem.

In a support document on Apple.com about USB charging, Apple explains that “some Apple computers and displays can provide up to 1100 milliamps [1.1 amps] … through the port to which the Apple peripheral or device is connected.” In other words, when an iPad or iPhone is connected to a newer Mac as its USB host, an iPad can draw current at more than twice the standard USB 2.0 rate.

The current isn’t delivered at as fast a rate as the 2.1 amps provided by Apple’s special AC wall adapter for recharging an iPad. Gizmodo has done a speed test of the fastest (and slowest) ways to charge an iPad. Charging via a Mac’s USB port at the 1.1 amp rate was the slowest way in the Gizmodo test, but it still got the job done. As we’ve identified, even 500 milliamps will get the job done as long as the iPad’s screen or power is off.

And 500 milliamps is the only rate that you’ll ever get from a Windows PC or any other USB 2.0 host that lacks Apple’s proprietary charging extensions.

You might be thinking that the ideal solution is just to get a Mac plus a USB hub. Then you can have all the benefits of multiple USB ports and can use one to charge your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at the faster rate available when connected directly to a Mac.

Unfortunately Apple only allows these devices to draw the 1.1-amp current from a Mac’s USB port via a direct connection. Apple explains: “An Apple peripheral device must be plugged directly into an Apple computer or display. Apple peripheral devices connected to hubs will not have access to extra power above the standard USB specification of 500 milliamps.”

In other words, if you connect a hub–powered or not– to your Mac, you lose access to the proprietary charging extensions in the Mac’s USB port that allow the Mac to charge your iPad, iPhone, or iPod at the 1.1-amp rate.

If you want to know how Apple establishes these proprietary USB charging behaviors, Ladyada.net has a great video and blog post on the technical underpinnings of the mysteries of Apple device charging. As she explains, it has to do with how Apple has engineered its devices to deviate from the USB 2.0 spec when they sense a special amount of voltage from the power source on two of the four lines that make up a USB connection.

Where Do We Go from Here
There is hope that in the future USB-connectable devices will consume power in a way that meets the “universal” promise in the USB name.

There is now a USB battery-charging spec that was developed to standardize USB-based charging behaviors. Unfortunately, the spec has not yet been widely adopted. And the lack of any strong industry efforts to market or brand spec compliance makes it difficult for customers to identify and buy products that already follow the spec.

In a world where following this spec was the norm, you could plug your hub into a wall, attach a bunch of devices, and get them all to recharge in a reasonable and predictable amount of time without having to take any special action.

Regardless of what happens in the future, our aim always is to make sure that you know what to expect from Plugable products today and that you are satisfied with the ones you purchase. If you have questions or comments about this article or device charging in general, feel free to leave a reply here, and we’ll respond.

If you have other questions about any Plugable hubs, docking stations, adapters, or cables, get in touch with us through our support website at support.plugable.com or e-mail us at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help.

The power of this incredibly simple piece of hardware is maximized by two software packages.

• Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software is built in to Windows 7 and Windows 8 Consumer Preview and is available as a free download for Windows XP (SP2 or higher required) and for Windows Vista. It provides a step-by-step interface for migrating Windows user account settings and files from an old PC to a new one.

• Plugable’s cable comes specially with a free license for Bravura Easy Computer Sync (a $19.95 retail value on its own), which enables drag-and-drop file transfer between two computers connected by the cable–a must-have tool for data management in non-networked environments. Even with a network, you can gain efficiency and security sharing data directly via the cable rather than by moving files to and from a network- or cloud-based drive.

The rest of this article focuses on when and how to use each of these two software packages.

Using Microsft Windows Easy Transfer
You’re thinking about buying a new Windows PC, but you’re daunted by the thought of transferring all your documents, photos, and Windows account settings from your trusted old PC. Have no fear. With Plugable’s easy transfer cable and Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software, you can migrate

• from a Windows XP SP2 (or higher) or Windows Vista PC to a Windows 7 or Windows 8 PC,
• from one Windows 7 PC to another,
• from  a Windows 7 PC to a Windows 8 PC, or
• from one Windows 8 PC to another.

Here’s how to do it.

1. Plug the easy transfer cable into a free USB port on each of the PCs (make it a USB 2.0 port if possible for the best connection speeds).

2. Windows will attempt to install the driver for the cable. An Internet connection may be required so that Windows can get the cable’s drivers from Windows Update.

3. Now you need to open Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software.

If you’re running Windows XP SP2 (or higher) or Windows Vista, an autorun option will give you the opportunity to launch the Windows Easy Transfer software if it’s installed. If it’s not, you’ll install it on the PC in a later step.

If you’re running Windows 7, Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer will open on screen when an easy transfer cable is plugged in:

If you’re running Windows 8 Consumer Preview, you’ll need to run a search on your PC for Windows Easy Transfer to launch it.

Search is available at the top of the pop-out menu that’s accessible from the lower right corner of the Windows 8 screen.

Within the search box, just type “Windows Easy Transfer”; launch Windows Easy Transfer with the icon that appears on the left.

4. On the new PC, you’ll select whether this is the new or old computer. Choose new and continue.

5. On the new computer, you’ll be asked if you’re going to need to install Windows Easy Transfer on the old computer. You will need to do this on Windows XP and Vista computers where the software hasn’t been installed and there is no Internet access. In such cases, on the new PC choose “I need to install it now.” Follow the prompts to copy the software where you want it: either a network or USB drive.

If you don’t need to install, choose either “I already installed it” or “My old computer is running Windows 7.”

6. On the old computer, if Windows Easy Transfer is running, select that it is the old computer.

If you first need to install Windows Easy Transfer on the old computer, you have two options:

• If you have an Internet connection, you can download an installable package from Microsoft at http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/products/features/windows-easy-transfer.

• If you don’t have an Internet connection, use the install package on the network or USB drive that you created earlier.

7. Once it’s installed and running on both the old and new computers, the Windows Easy Transfer software will connect the computers.

From this point forward, you will make all your decisions on the new computer.

8. On the new PC, the Windows Easy Transfer software lets you choose what you want to pull from the old computer and how you want the synchronization to occur.

The “Customize” option lets you select which file folders and settings to synchronize on to the new PC.

Choosing “Advanced” from this menu allows you to select specific files to transfer rather than the whole folder.

Back in the main window, the “Advanced Options…” link lets you decide whether to pull the whole user account associated with the files and settings from the old PC to the new PC or to merge it into an account already on the new PC.

From the “Map drives” tab in this window you can determine where on the new PC the files will be transferred if you don’t want them to be placed in the same file path as they had on the old PC.

9. Once you decide what you want to copy from the old computer to the new computer, choose “Transfer” and watch the progress as the data is migrated. When it’s finished, you’ll get the chance to see what was transferred.

Another useful option that this final window offers is to see what programs were installed on your old PC that you might want to install on your new PC.

This is helpful since the Windows Easy Transfer software moves documents and account settings but not your installed apps. Now you can see what you might need to re-install on your new PC to match your old PC’s functionality.

10. You now can close the Windows Easy Transfer software on both computers and disconnect the easy transfer cable.

Using Bravura Easy Computer Sync
The first scenario involved a common requirement when setting up a new PC. But a lot of times you simply need an easy way to share files between two computers on an ongoing basis.

For those purposes, you’ll want to install and use the Bravura Easy Computer Sync software that’s made specially available to you at no extra charge once you buy a Plugable easy transfer cable.

You can the Bravura software for moving any files between two PCs running Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7, or Windows 8 in any combination.

It’s easy to get started with Bravura Easy Computer sync. After your easy transfer cable purchase, you will receive an e-mail from Plugable similar to the one below (customized to your order) that tells you how to download and install the Bravura software.

Thanks for your purchase of the Plugable USB 2.0 Easy Transfer Cable!

In addition to compatibility with Microsoft’s built-in Windows Easy Transfer software, this cable also includes a full license to Bravura’s Easy Computer Sync application ($19.95 value), which adds drag and drop and other additional features.

You can download the latest version at http://www.bravurasoftware.com/easy-computer-sync/

This download also includes and installs the latest versions of Microsoft’s drivers (required on XP and Vista).

Your Bravura Easy Computer Sync product key is XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX

Please enter this key when requested by Bravura’s software.

This product key is uniquely matched to this Amazon order number, and is licensed for use with this cable on multiple machines.

1. You will need to install the Bravura software on all computers where you want to use it and then register it with the license key you received from us via e-mail (use the same key on all computers). The software works on Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7, and Windows 8 Consumer Preview.

2. Once the software is installed, connect the two computers with the easy transfer cable.

Close Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software if it comes up automatically once the cable is attached. The Bravura software will get confused if Windows Easy Transfer is open on either end of the connection.

3. To launch the Bravura software, look for the “Easy Computer Sync” folder in the Start Menu (for Windows XP, Vista, or 7) or its icon on the Desktop (if you chose to have a shortcut put there during product installation). In Windows 8, there will be a new tile on your desktop for Easy Computer Sync.

Remember to launch the software on both computers that will be involved with the sync.

4. You’ll click “Next” on some introductory screens.

5. When you come to a screen with default set of folders to sync, you’re almost there. This screen offers a repeat of the basic Windows Easy Transfer functionality. Ignore it in favor of using  Bravura’s drag-and-drop file transfer between the connected PCs.

To do so, click the “Drag & Drop Files” button.

6. You’ll switch to a new UI that shows a traditional looking file manager for both computers.

You now can traverse the file system on either computer and move or copy files between the two by drag and drop or via the cut/copy/paste commands. Be careful with the power of this interface. Just as when you’re in Windows Explorer, don’t move or remove any files if you don’t know what they do.

If You Need Help
We’ve tried to cover the basics of how you can make the most of your Plugable USB-EASY-TRAN easy transfer cable in conjunction with Windows Easy Transfer (migrating Windows account files and settings from an old to a new PC) and Bravura Easy Computer Sync (general file transfer between two computers). But we’re always here to help with your specific questions and use cases.

Feel free to comment here or write us at support@plugable.com.

Plugable USB 2.0 Easy Transfer Cable

Product Details

$15.95

Maybe you have a non-networkable printer or scanner that you need to set up across the room–or in a different room altogether–than the connected computer is located. Perhaps you’re mounting a USB device like a webcam or speakers high on the wall but your PC or Mac needs to remain on the floor. Or maybe you’re a gamer and want to use and recharge your PS3 DualShock controller simultaneously from the comfort of your couch rather than having to crowd up close to the console.

Suffice it to say, there are plenty of scenarios where you need a long USB cable. Plugable’s USB2-5M active extension cable lets you extend USB devices up to five meters (16 feet) from the system or hub to which they’re connected.

Because the USB2-5M adheres to the USB 2.0 spec for the length of USB extension cables for data transmission, you can use it to connect any class of USB devices. Quality shielding and an active-repeater (a hub controller) help to ensure a strong data signal as it travels the length of the cable. We use the best chip on the market for this application.

You can even string USB2-5M cables together to achieve a really long reach (USB 2.0 has a built-in depth limit of 5 hubs/devices, so typically 3 or 4 cables is the most you’ll be able to string together before hitting that limit).

As an active cable, each USB2-5M will draw 100 milliamps of the 500 total milliamps of available current from the host USB port to which it’s plugged in.

If the peripheral that you’re going to attach to the cable also draws its power from the USB port rather than its own external power supply, you might need to connect an AC-powered hub between the cable and the peripheral. The powered hub will ensure that the peripheral has access to sufficient amperage rather than competing with the cable for current from the host port.

If you have questions about scenarios in which you think the USB2-5M would be beneficial, feel free to comment. And don’t hesitate to write to us on the public support forum at http://support.plugable.com or privately via e-mail at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help.

Plugable 5 Meter (16 Foot) USB 2.0 Active Extension Cable Type A Male to A Female

Product Details

$9.95

We’ve already begun installing Microsoft’s latest operating system on PCs in our lab for the fun of hands-on exploration and–more importantly–for testing the compatibility of Plugable products on this platform.

Here’s what we know already.

Graphics Adapters
All Plugable graphics adapters rely on DisplayLink drivers that are explicitly called out during Windows 8 Consumer Preview setup as incompatible with the new operating system. DisplayLink has made Beta drivers available for Windows 8 on its public forum.

1) You will need to uninstall your current DisplayLink drivers when prompted to do so by Windows 8 Consumer Preview setup.

2) Once Windows 8 Consumer Preview is installed, you can download and install the Beta DisplayLink drivers from http://displaylink.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1331. Please read the known issues listed there for the Beta drivers to be aware of any that may affect you.

We have used these Beta drivers successfully on a computer running Windows 8 Consumer Preview with a Plugable UGA-2k-A graphics adapter. With an extended desktop, the Windows 8 “Metro” interface showed on the primary desktop, and the extended desktop functioned like a Windows 7 extended desktop.

The ability to control whether in duplicate or extend mode was located on an option called “Devices” that can be invoked from the lower right corner in the “Metro” UI.

Network Adapters
Windows 8 Consumer Preview should find the compatible ASIX or Realtek drivers for all Plugable network adapters via Windows Update. The computer will need a network connection separate from the one made available by the Plugable adapter.

USB 3.0 Devices
Windows 8 has native support for USB 3.0 and should properly manage the host controllers in any Plugable USB 3.0 cards and hubs. No third party drivers should be required.

Windows Easy Transfer Cable
The Plugable Windows Easy Transfer cable works in Windows 8. We’ll devote a future post to the topic of what the user interface looks like in Windows 8.

We’ll also cover using the optional Bravura software (license comes with the Plugable cable) in that future post.

If You Need Support
We hope all Plugable products function to your satisfaction on Windows 8 Consumer Preview. But if you experience problems or previously unseen quirks, we encourage you to post your questions at http://support.plugable.com or write to us at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help and eager to hear about your experiences with Windows 8.

Plugable’s new USB-NANO-11N WiFi adapter offers 802.11n wireless connectivity in an incredibly small package.

At just 0.25 inches long by 0.5 inches wide when plugged into a USB port, the USB-NANO-11N is barely noticeable. With such a low profile, you don’t have to worry about the adapter snapping off from an accidental nudge. In fact, you won’t even need to unplug it before you stuff your laptop PC your backpack or totebag.

Size Matters
The drawback of such a small form factor is that the USB-NANO-11N has a small antenna, which limits the performance and range of the adapter. While it theoretically could connect to an 802.11n wireless network at a top speed of 150 Mbps, real-world usage shows that speeds up to 24 Mbps are more likely.

Distance from the WiFi hotspot also will cause the connection quality to vary. For optimal performance, we recommend the USB-NANO-11N for customers who plan to use the adapter in the same room as the hotspot.

Getting Connected
If the USB-NANO-11N is right for you, there’s an important step you must take before plugging it in to your computer: Download and install the latest drivers first.

There is a drivers CD included with the adapter, but it’s always best to use the latest drivers available online. And if you’re going to use this on a Windows PC, you definitely want to install the updated drivers rather than rely on Windows to pick the right ones for you.

Given that you’re probably going to use the adapter on a computer that doesn’t currently have an Internet connection, you’ll need to find a computer where you can get to the following URL: http://plugable.com/products/usb-nano-11n/driver. This will take you to the drivers page for the Realtek 8818CUS chipset that’s at the heart of the USB-NANO-11N.

Screen shot of the Windows, Mac, and Linux drivers download page for the USB-NANO-11N

Download the drivers you need–they’re available for Windows XP, Vista, and 7; Mac OS X 10.4 and up; plus versions of Linux (Note: the Android drivers are for developers only)–to some kind of portable media (USB drive, CD) that you can use on the computer where you need to install them.

Once the drivers are in place (a restart may be needed), plug in the USB-NANO-11N, and you should be good to go. The adapter works in USB 2.0 and 1.1 ports, though you’ll get faster throughput in a USB 2.0 port. When you have an active connection, an LED at the top of the unit will flash intermittently.

The driver install also will add Realtek’s USB wireless LAN utility to you computer, which allows you to manage the adapter’s settings, set up usage profiles, and see info about the state of your network connection. It’s all the same functionality that’s available through your computer’s operating system but in one handy location for the USB-NANO-11N.

As noted, the adapter supports the 802.11n draft WiFi specification for data transmission in the 2.4Ghz band, but it is compatible with the older 802.11b and g specifications. It also supports the common WiFi security protocols (64/128 bit WEP, WPA/WPA2, WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK and Wi-Fi Protected Setup).

Additional Uses
In future posts we’ll look at some other uses of the USB-NANO-11N, such as

• adding a second network adapter to a PC to use it for Internet connection sharing and
• getting all your wireless devices on the same 802.11 spec for improved WiFi speed.

If you have pre-sales or support questions about the USB-NANO-11N, don’t hesitate to write to us at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help.

Plugable USB Wireless Adapter – 802.11N – 1T1R – Nano Size – Short Range – Windows, Mac, Linux (Realtek Chipset)

Product Details

This latest upgrade to the Mac OS was made publicly available at the beginning of this month. Unfortunately it breaks display rotation functionality in all third-party display drivers.

DisplayLink, the maker of the graphics chipset in Plugable graphics display adapters, is in touch with Apple about potential fixes for the problem. When word of a solution arrives, we’ll post it on the Plugable blog.

Meanwhile, if you already have upgraded to 10.7.3 and now find that your rotated display connected throgh a third-party graphics display adapter seems to be broken, here are the steps posted in the DisplayLink Mac forum (http://displaylink.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1484) to restore functionality:.

1. Shut down the Mac.

2. Disconnect the Plugable graphics display adapter.

3. Boot in safe mode by pressing and holding the shift key after the startup tone (http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1455).

4. Open the Display preferences in System preferences.

5. Reboot.

6. Connect your Plugable graphics display adapter. The display should work again, and its rotation should be back to standard.

If you have upgraded to 10.7.3 but do not use display rotation, you might not see any problems. However, we still do not recommend updating to 10.7.3 until DisplayLink is certain that all display-management functionality is stable in this version of Mac OS X.

DisplayLink’s latest Mac driver works properly with OS X 10.7.2 and earlier OS X releases.

You can find the current DisplayLink driver for OS X at http://displaylink.com/support/mac_downloads.php.

If you’re having trouble with your Plugable graphics display adapter on a Mac, you can look to our support forums at http://support.plugable.com or write to us at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help.

The inexpensive solution: Plug the printer’s USB cable into the computer where you have something to print. Repeat as needed.

The easier solution: Get the Plugable USB2-SWITCH2 for fast, one-touch switching of the printer–well, really any USB 1.1/2.0 device or hub–between two computers. One computer has access to the device at a time.

For anyone who’s been involved with information technology for a while, the practice of using a switch to share access between multiple computers and a device is not new. But the power of USB dramatically enhances the potential of what can be shared.

In the days before USB, you had to buy a specialized switch that was compatible with the connection cable used by the device to which you wanted to share access. For example, a keyboard-video-mouse switch–abbreviated as a KVM switch–provided switched access to just those three devices.

A USB switch enables two computers to access a single USB device, like a printer.

Now with a USB-based switch, you can set up switched access between two computers to any USB 1.1/2.0 device–no specialized switch boxes necessary for each device. And if you connect the switch to a USB hub, you’ll have switched access to all the devices connected to the hub. This can offer a lot of flexibility.

Attach a USB hub to a USB switch to enable two computers to access all the devices connected to the hub.

Here’s an example from our lab of the way you can maximize the USB2-SWITCH2’s potential:

• Connect a PC running Windows 7 and a Mac Mini running OS/X.
• Attach a Plugable USB2-HUB-AG7 powered seven-port hub to the switch.
• Plug the following devices into the hub:
• A Plugable USB-VGA-165 display adapter (set to mirror the main display)
• A Plugable USB2-E100 10/100 Ethernet adapter
• A USB-based keyboard and mouse

With a single button press, you can switch access to a mouse, a keyboard, a display, and a network connection between two computers running different operating systems. And you’ll still have three ports in the hub to spare for a printer, scanner, external hard drive, webcam, or any of the multitude of USB-based devices that exist. Watch the video below to see our configuration in action.

The switch requires no drivers. Just connect it to any two computers with USB 1.1/2.0 ports via the included five-foot USB A/B cables, attach a device or hub, and that’s it. Be aware that the attached device might require drivers to use it with your computer’s operating system. The first time you switch access to the device, you may either be asked to install drivers if you haven’t already or receive an error if your computer’s operating system can’t recognize the device. If you switch to a hub connected to multiple devices, you may have to go through driver installs for all those devices.

The USB2-SWITCH2 comes with two five-foot USB A/B cables.

The USB2-SWITCH2 is available at Amazon.com. We’d love to hear your stories about how you use this incredibly simple but highly effective device in your home or office. If you have any questions about its functionality or have trouble getting it set up, write us at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help.

Plugable USB 2.0 Switch for One-Button Swapping of USB Device/Hub Between Two Computers

Product Details