On May 18th, DisplayLink released their latest version 6.3 Windows drivers. This single driver supports all USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 generation DisplayLink-based products (including all USB graphics products from Plugable), on Windows XP SP2 and later, and Server 2008 and later.

We’re recommending this driver for all USB 3.0 generation products (Like our Plugable USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter). And it’s a good upgrade for USB 2.0 users, too.

The largest improvements for existing users of any DisplayLink-based device, including USB 2.0 ones, are:

1) Much better support in Windows Vista/7 Basic mode (Aero off). While this is a corner case, it’s a huge amount of work on DisplayLink’s part, and will save a lot of frustration for those intentionally or unintentionally dropped into Basic mode by Windows.
2) Better performance / resolution scalability on slower CPUs by avoiding an extra copy for every pixel (introduced earlier in 6.x series)
3) Bugs and other issues resolved

Here are the details from DisplayLink’s release notes, ordered by our perceived importance of the improvement (based on our support cases here at Plugable).

Fixed issues since R6.2 (from DisplayLink’s release notes)

On Windows 7/Vista WDDM Basic, video is not supported. It may work in some
cases but exhibits poor performance. It may stop working after an update from
Windows Update that affects the graphics subsystem. (2028,1609, 3883)

On Vista and Windows 7 in Basic Mode, video will not play on DisplayLink
screens after installation until the PC is rebooted. In Aero mode no reboot
is needed before video will play. (4432)

Occasionally on Windows 7, applying a layout change involving DisplayLink
screens can change the resolution of or turn off one or more screens. To
recover, press the Windows+P keys and select a different setting. (6010, 8741,
9768, 8618, 9956, 10739, 12300, 12715, 13166, 13167, 13226, 13296, 13334)

Some systems may not boot into Windows when DisplayLink device is connected.
(13657)

All screens are black after several layout changes on some machines. (13550)

On some systems all displays may be black or flashing when resuming from
display power save. (13582, 13471)

Sometimes changing mode or layout position of a DisplayLink monitor may fail
with a “Cannot write to specific device” message in the system tray. To recover
replug the device. (13517)

Optimized for Video option removed from Devices and Printers. (13746)

Sometimes all monitors can get blank if trying to mirror two DisplayLink
monitors connected to the system. (13355)

Sometimes enabling previously switched off main monitor may cause all displays
to flicker. (13149)

Sometimes a blue screen can occur when disconnecting DisplayLink device while
having another monitor connected to laptop’s main VGA/DVI port. (13256)

PowerDVD 12 crashes with DisplayLink software installed. (13668)

USBCV tests not passing (13879, 13896, 13878)

Repeated replugging of certain Display Monitors can cause indeterminate
behaviour. (13581)

Failure to detect some hot swapped DVI monitors. (13597)

Fullscreen Direct X Metro applications will be software rendered on DisplayLink
and non-DisplayLink screens

DisplayLink USB 3.0 generation (DL-3×000) fixes

Audio on DL3x00 devices is not automatically default when first connected to
Windows XP systems. (13511)

Occasional failure in resuming from sleep for DL3x00 devices. (13440)

Occasionally after installation the Ethernet driver for the DisplayLink device
will not load. Unplug and replug to recover. (12050)

Wrong audio jack information. (13496)

On some Windows XP systems connecting a network cable to a DisplayLink device
causes the address bar of Windows Explorer to start blinking. (12568)

In particular circumstances a DL3x00 device can drop from SuperSpeed to High
Speed USB. (13769)

USB 3 connection dropping to USB 2 during power state transitions with some
DL3x00 devices. (13769)

Sometimes a DisplayLink monitor connected through DisplayPort may flash after
a resolution change. (13342)

DisplayPort monitor may remain black after being connected to a DisplayLink
device. (13577)

HDMI audio stops playing after some time. (13307)

HDMI compliance timing fails at resolution 640 x 480@60. (13652)

On some systems using Renesas USB 3.0 host controller disconnecting the
DisplayLink device while playing video may cause system to hang for up to
2 minutes. System will automatically recover after that time. (13364)

Audio not available on DisplayPort monitors immediately after drivers
installation. (13580)

Ethernet on DL3x00 devices unreliable when connected to specific Gigabit
Ethernet switches. (13161)

Default volume on DL3x00 devices too high. (13608)

Ethernet connection dropping out under heavy load on 10Mb networks. (13688)

Supported Operating Systems

This release can be installed on the following operating systems:

– Windows XP SP2 (32-bit edition only)
– Windows XP SP3 (32-bit edition only)
– Windows Vista SP1 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows Vista SP2 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows 7 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows 8 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
– Windows Server 2008 (32-bit and 64-bit editions)
(This OS has received limited testing)
– Windows Server 2008 R2
(This OS has received limited testing)

Download and Support

Download the latest DisplayLink drivers here: http://displaylink.com/support/downloads.php

If you have any problem at all with any Plugable brand device and the DisplayLink 6.3 drivers, please let us know.

Comment here or email support@plugable.com anytime. We’re here to help!

This new adapter is a big step forward in several ways:

• Among the first product to launch with the latest DisplayLink DL-3500 USB 3.0 / 2.0 chipset.
• SuperSpeed USB 3.0 lifts the lid on performance. Enables a max theoretical throughput of 5000 Mbps vs. 480 Mbps for USB 2.0.
• Features a completely re-engineered 6 layer PCB design that is *small*. About half the size of our smallest USB 2.0 generation adapters. The adapter fits nicely inline with the cable,its weight doesn’t create any pull when hanging mid-air, and it doesn’t clutter the desk. You’ll be shocked at what this little adapter can do.
• The adapter works with older USB 2.0 Windows systems (at USB 2.0 speeds), with no problems mixing and matching USB 2.0 and 3.0 adapters on the same system (using the same common DisplayLink driver).
• The USB 3.0 generation of products is Windows-only for now. On Windows, you get all the great multi-monitor functionality, without compromise — and now with better performance in higher resolutions and with video.

The Plugable USB 3.0 HDMI / DVI Graphics Adapter product page has a lot more information. But for a start, check out the following videos.

The video below shows unboxing the product and a little intro.

And this 2nd video shows a bit more depth — plugging the adapter in, installing drivers, and tips for using the product.

We’re very excited about the potential of this great new product. Feel free to comment with any questions!

Plugable USB 3.0 to HDMI / DVI Adapter for Multiple Monitors up to 2048×1152 / 1920×1200 Each (DisplayLink DL-3500 Chipset)

Product Details

$69.99

“Bought this as a powered USB hub so that an iPhone and iPad could be connected to a MacBook Pro and charge both. Does not work.”

“So much for a ‘powered’ usb hub, it doesn’t power my iPad …, which defeats the purpose of me even getting it.”

It seems like it should be so easy. You have a hub that is plugged into an electrical socket. Your iPad is plugged into the hub. It should recharge. But it says, “Not Charging.” Why?

It all has to do with how electrical current is supposed to flow through USB ports and with confusion caused by proprietary behaviors that Apple has implemented in its product ecosystem that lead to different recharging results in seemingly identical scenarios.

If you want to avoid the answer to the “why” question and just know how to charge your Apple iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch when it’s connected to a self-powered hub, here are your two options.

Option 1: The iPad/iPhone/iPod is connected to a hub that is plugged into an electrical outlet and a computer simultaneously. The Apple device will recharge by pulling current at a rate of 500 milliamps when attached to this hub (the hub’s power supply must have enough amperage to provide this current).

• The iPhone and iPod both will indicate they are charging in this state. Total recharge time will be about half as fast as when they are plugged directly into a Mac’s USB port or an electrical outlet.

• The iPad will display “Not Charging” in this state if its screen is enabled. Put the screen to sleep with the Sleep/Wake button on the iPad’s exterior, and the device will start to charge. In our tests, an iPad charging at a 500-milliamp rate will add about 10% to its battery meter every 1.5 hours.

Option 2: The iPad/iPhone/iPod is connected to a hub that is plugged into an electrical outlet but not a computer. The Apple device’s power must be completely turned off for the device to recharge when attached to this hub. Here are step-by-step instructions.

1. Plug the iPad, iPhone, or iPod into the hub. If the device was previously shut down, it will turn on upon sensing power from the hub.
2. Perform Apple’s shutdown routine for the device. You can’t  just let the screen go blank. You need to hold down the physical Sleep/Wake button on the exterior of the iPad, iPhone, or iPod until you see the red arrow on screen that you can swipe to turn off the device.
3. Swipe the red arrow to complete the shutdown process.
4. Once turned off, the Apple devices will draw power through the hub at the 500-milliamp rate.

Please be aware that if you attach multiple Apple devices at one time to your hub in either scenario that you might start to exceed the amperage available in your hub’s power supply. We cannot verify charging will occur once this has occurred.

In our tests, when we overloaded the available power supply, we saw varying results in how the attached devices consumed power. However, we did observe that iPhones and iPods (not iPads) still would charge–albeit very slowly–when drawing power at the 100 milliamp rate.

If you want to know more about how USB power works and where Apple deviates from the USB 2.0 standards, read on.

USB Power Primer
The USB 2.0 spec permits devices to pull current at a default rate of 100 milliamps from a USB 2.0 port (we’ll call this the host)–enough to power a mouse but hardly enough to charge an iPad battery.

If a USB 2.0 device needs current at faster rate than 100 milliamps to function, it is allowed to negotiate with the host to increase its consumption rate to a maximum of 500 milliamps from the host’s port.

When a device tries to draw more current than is available to the host–often described as overcurrent–you can end up with a warning that there isn’t sufficient power to meet the device’s needs. This warning might appear on the host (e.g., a popup in the Windows taskbar, like the one shown to the right). But others, like the Mac, disable the port without any warning, often creating the erroneous impression that the devices are broken. They aren’t–they’re just not able to draw any power from the port anymore. A reboot re-enables the port, but the port will shut down again if you don’t take any action to reduce the power consumption by the mix of devices attached to the port.

When multiple devices are connected to a single USB 2.0 port via an unpowered hub, it can lead to an overcurrent situation, especially because all the devices attached to the hub have to share the 500 milliamp current available through the host’s port. The hub can only split the available current, not multiply it.

A self-powered USB 2.0 hub–that is, one with its own AC adapter–can alleviate this situation, because it can tell the host, “Don’t worry, I can take over as the provider of the current that these devices want.”

For example, if the hub’s the power supply can deliver current at a rate of 2.5 amps (100 milliamps = .1 amps), and there are five ports on the hub, the host now can let each USB 2.0 device attached to a port on the hub negotiate for up to the USB 2.0 maximum of 500 milliamps (2.5 amps / 5 ports = 500 milliamps / port) without exceeding the hub’s power capacity.

When There’s No Host
When a self-powered hub is plugged into an electrical outlet but not connected to a host–think of it as a USB-based power strip in this configuration–it becomes wildly unpredictable how devices attached to the hub will behave when trying to draw power. The original USB 2.0 spec just didn’t envision how important USB-based power consumpution would become.

Without guidance from the spec on what to do in this scenario, device manufacturers can implement whatever behaviors they desire. Some devices will pull power at the same rate as they do when attached to a host-connected hub. Other devices will downgrade to the 100 milliamp default. Certain devices may try to exceed the 500 milliamp limit in the USB 2.0 spec–not necessarily a bad thing for improving device charging times.

In the case of the Apple iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch, we saw different power consumption behaviors depending on whether the devices were powered on or off. When powered on, they could draw only 100 milliamps of power. When turned off, as explained earlier, they would draw 500 milliamps of power.

This image shows an iPad's power consumption when plugged into a self-powered hub that has no data connection: On the left, the iPad in a powered-on state is drawing 100 milliamps from the hub. On the right, the iPad in a powered-off state is drawing nearly 500 milliamps from the hub. Click the image for a larger view.

If you have questions about whether your specific phone, tablet, or handheld device will charge if it’s plugged into a hub that’s being used like a power strip, the only way to know is to plug the device into the hub and see what happens.

Apple Bites Back
Apple makes great devices, but it also makes the USB-charging situation even more confusing. As explained, the iPad, iPod, and iPhone will recharge when pulling 500 milliamps of current. But Apple has engineered these devices to prefer to pull more than USB 2.0-specified  maximum of 500 milliamps. However, to do so, the devices must be connected directly to USB ports that have been customized with Apple’s proprietary charging extensions.

Click the image to go to Apple's support document that explains the proprietary USB charging behaviors in Apple's product ecosystem.

In a support document on Apple.com about USB charging, Apple explains that “some Apple computers and displays can provide up to 1100 milliamps [1.1 amps] … through the port to which the Apple peripheral or device is connected.” In other words, when an iPad or iPhone is connected to a newer Mac as its USB host, an iPad can draw current at more than twice the standard USB 2.0 rate.

The current isn’t delivered at as fast a rate as the 2.1 amps provided by Apple’s special AC wall adapter for recharging an iPad. Gizmodo has done a speed test of the fastest (and slowest) ways to charge an iPad. Charging via a Mac’s USB port at the 1.1 amp rate was the slowest way in the Gizmodo test, but it still got the job done. As we’ve identified, even 500 milliamps will get the job done as long as the iPad’s screen or power is off.

And 500 milliamps is the only rate that you’ll ever get from a Windows PC or any other USB 2.0 host that lacks Apple’s proprietary charging extensions.

You might be thinking that the ideal solution is just to get a Mac plus a USB hub. Then you can have all the benefits of multiple USB ports and can use one to charge your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at the faster rate available when connected directly to a Mac.

Unfortunately Apple only allows these devices to draw the 1.1-amp current from a Mac’s USB port via a direct connection. Apple explains: “An Apple peripheral device must be plugged directly into an Apple computer or display. Apple peripheral devices connected to hubs will not have access to extra power above the standard USB specification of 500 milliamps.”

In other words, if you connect a hub–powered or not– to your Mac, you lose access to the proprietary charging extensions in the Mac’s USB port that allow the Mac to charge your iPad, iPhone, or iPod at the 1.1-amp rate.

If you want to know how Apple establishes these proprietary USB charging behaviors, Ladyada.net has a great video and blog post on the technical underpinnings of the mysteries of Apple device charging. As she explains, it has to do with how Apple has engineered its devices to deviate from the USB 2.0 spec when they sense a special amount of voltage from the power source on two of the four lines that make up a USB connection.

Where Do We Go from Here
There is hope that in the future USB-connectable devices will consume power in a way that meets the “universal” promise in the USB name.

There is now a USB battery-charging spec that was developed to standardize USB-based charging behaviors. Unfortunately, the spec has not yet been widely adopted. And the lack of any strong industry efforts to market or brand spec compliance makes it difficult for customers to identify and buy products that already follow the spec.

In a world where following this spec was the norm, you could plug your hub into a wall, attach a bunch of devices, and get them all to recharge in a reasonable and predictable amount of time without having to take any special action.

Regardless of what happens in the future, our aim always is to make sure that you know what to expect from Plugable products today and that you are satisfied with the ones you purchase. If you have questions or comments about this article or device charging in general, feel free to leave a reply here, and we’ll respond.

If you have other questions about any Plugable hubs, docking stations, adapters, or cables, get in touch with us through our support website at support.plugable.com or e-mail us at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help.

The power of this incredibly simple piece of hardware is maximized by two software packages.

• Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software is built in to Windows 7 and Windows 8 Consumer Preview and is available as a free download for Windows XP (SP2 or higher required) and for Windows Vista. It provides a step-by-step interface for migrating Windows user account settings and files from an old PC to a new one.

• Plugable’s cable comes specially with a free license for Bravura Easy Computer Sync (a $19.95 retail value on its own), which enables drag-and-drop file transfer between two computers connected by the cable–a must-have tool for data management in non-networked environments. Even with a network, you can gain efficiency and security sharing data directly via the cable rather than by moving files to and from a network- or cloud-based drive.

The rest of this article focuses on when and how to use each of these two software packages.

Using Microsft Windows Easy Transfer
You’re thinking about buying a new Windows PC, but you’re daunted by the thought of transferring all your documents, photos, and Windows account settings from your trusted old PC. Have no fear. With Plugable’s easy transfer cable and Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software, you can migrate

• from a Windows XP SP2 (or higher) or Windows Vista PC to a Windows 7 or Windows 8 PC,
• from one Windows 7 PC to another,
• from  a Windows 7 PC to a Windows 8 PC, or
• from one Windows 8 PC to another.

Here’s how to do it.

1. Plug the easy transfer cable into a free USB port on each of the PCs (make it a USB 2.0 port if possible for the best connection speeds).

2. Windows will attempt to install the driver for the cable. An Internet connection may be required so that Windows can get the cable’s drivers from Windows Update.

3. Now you need to open Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software.

If you’re running Windows XP SP2 (or higher) or Windows Vista, an autorun option will give you the opportunity to launch the Windows Easy Transfer software if it’s installed. If it’s not, you’ll install it on the PC in a later step.

If you’re running Windows 7, Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer will open on screen when an easy transfer cable is plugged in:

If you’re running Windows 8 Consumer Preview, you’ll need to run a search on your PC for Windows Easy Transfer to launch it.

Search is available at the top of the pop-out menu that’s accessible from the lower right corner of the Windows 8 screen.

Within the search box, just type “Windows Easy Transfer”; launch Windows Easy Transfer with the icon that appears on the left.

4. On the new PC, you’ll select whether this is the new or old computer. Choose new and continue.

5. On the new computer, you’ll be asked if you’re going to need to install Windows Easy Transfer on the old computer. You will need to do this on Windows XP and Vista computers where the software hasn’t been installed and there is no Internet access. In such cases, on the new PC choose “I need to install it now.” Follow the prompts to copy the software where you want it: either a network or USB drive.

If you don’t need to install, choose either “I already installed it” or “My old computer is running Windows 7.”

6. On the old computer, if Windows Easy Transfer is running, select that it is the old computer.

If you first need to install Windows Easy Transfer on the old computer, you have two options:

• If you have an Internet connection, you can download an installable package from Microsoft at http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/products/features/windows-easy-transfer.

• If you don’t have an Internet connection, use the install package on the network or USB drive that you created earlier.

7. Once it’s installed and running on both the old and new computers, the Windows Easy Transfer software will connect the computers.

From this point forward, you will make all your decisions on the new computer.

8. On the new PC, the Windows Easy Transfer software lets you choose what you want to pull from the old computer and how you want the synchronization to occur.

The “Customize” option lets you select which file folders and settings to synchronize on to the new PC.

Choosing “Advanced” from this menu allows you to select specific files to transfer rather than the whole folder.

Back in the main window, the “Advanced Options…” link lets you decide whether to pull the whole user account associated with the files and settings from the old PC to the new PC or to merge it into an account already on the new PC.

From the “Map drives” tab in this window you can determine where on the new PC the files will be transferred if you don’t want them to be placed in the same file path as they had on the old PC.

9. Once you decide what you want to copy from the old computer to the new computer, choose “Transfer” and watch the progress as the data is migrated. When it’s finished, you’ll get the chance to see what was transferred.

Another useful option that this final window offers is to see what programs were installed on your old PC that you might want to install on your new PC.

This is helpful since the Windows Easy Transfer software moves documents and account settings but not your installed apps. Now you can see what you might need to re-install on your new PC to match your old PC’s functionality.

10. You now can close the Windows Easy Transfer software on both computers and disconnect the easy transfer cable.

Using Bravura Easy Computer Sync
The first scenario involved a common requirement when setting up a new PC. But a lot of times you simply need an easy way to share files between two computers on an ongoing basis.

For those purposes, you’ll want to install and use the Bravura Easy Computer Sync software that’s made specially available to you at no extra charge once you buy a Plugable easy transfer cable.

You can the Bravura software for moving any files between two PCs running Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7, or Windows 8 in any combination.

It’s easy to get started with Bravura Easy Computer sync. After your easy transfer cable purchase, you will receive an e-mail from Plugable similar to the one below (customized to your order) that tells you how to download and install the Bravura software.

Thanks for your purchase of the Plugable USB 2.0 Easy Transfer Cable!

In addition to compatibility with Microsoft’s built-in Windows Easy Transfer software, this cable also includes a full license to Bravura’s Easy Computer Sync application ($19.95 value), which adds drag and drop and other additional features.

You can download the latest version at http://www.bravurasoftware.com/easy-computer-sync/

This download also includes and installs the latest versions of Microsoft’s drivers (required on XP and Vista).

Your Bravura Easy Computer Sync product key is XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX

Please enter this key when requested by Bravura’s software.

This product key is uniquely matched to this Amazon order number, and is licensed for use with this cable on multiple machines.

1. You will need to install the Bravura software on all computers where you want to use it and then register it with the license key you received from us via e-mail (use the same key on all computers). The software works on Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7, and Windows 8 Consumer Preview.

2. Once the software is installed, connect the two computers with the easy transfer cable.

Close Microsoft’s Windows Easy Transfer software if it comes up automatically once the cable is attached. The Bravura software will get confused if Windows Easy Transfer is open on either end of the connection.

3. To launch the Bravura software, look for the “Easy Computer Sync” folder in the Start Menu (for Windows XP, Vista, or 7) or its icon on the Desktop (if you chose to have a shortcut put there during product installation). In Windows 8, there will be a new tile on your desktop for Easy Computer Sync.

Remember to launch the software on both computers that will be involved with the sync.

4. You’ll click “Next” on some introductory screens.

5. When you come to a screen with default set of folders to sync, you’re almost there. This screen offers a repeat of the basic Windows Easy Transfer functionality. Ignore it in favor of using  Bravura’s drag-and-drop file transfer between the connected PCs.

To do so, click the “Drag & Drop Files” button.

6. You’ll switch to a new UI that shows a traditional looking file manager for both computers.

You now can traverse the file system on either computer and move or copy files between the two by drag and drop or via the cut/copy/paste commands. Be careful with the power of this interface. Just as when you’re in Windows Explorer, don’t move or remove any files if you don’t know what they do.

If You Need Help
We’ve tried to cover the basics of how you can make the most of your Plugable USB-EASY-TRAN easy transfer cable in conjunction with Windows Easy Transfer (migrating Windows account files and settings from an old to a new PC) and Bravura Easy Computer Sync (general file transfer between two computers). But we’re always here to help with your specific questions and use cases.

Feel free to comment here or write us at support@plugable.com.

Plugable USB 2.0 Easy Transfer Cable

Product Details

$15.95

Plugable’s new USB-NANO-11N WiFi adapter offers 802.11n wireless connectivity in an incredibly small package.

At just 0.25 inches long by 0.5 inches wide when plugged into a USB port, the USB-NANO-11N is barely noticeable. With such a low profile, you don’t have to worry about the adapter snapping off from an accidental nudge. In fact, you won’t even need to unplug it before you stuff your laptop PC your backpack or totebag.

Size Matters
The drawback of such a small form factor is that the USB-NANO-11N has a small antenna, which limits the performance and range of the adapter. While it theoretically could connect to an 802.11n wireless network at a top speed of 150 Mbps, real-world usage shows that speeds up to 24 Mbps are more likely.

Distance from the WiFi hotspot also will cause the connection quality to vary. For optimal performance, we recommend the USB-NANO-11N for customers who plan to use the adapter in the same room as the hotspot.

Getting Connected
If the USB-NANO-11N is right for you, there’s an important step you must take before plugging it in to your computer: Download and install the latest drivers first.

There is a drivers CD included with the adapter, but it’s always best to use the latest drivers available online. And if you’re going to use this on a Windows PC, you definitely want to install the updated drivers rather than rely on Windows to pick the right ones for you.

Given that you’re probably going to use the adapter on a computer that doesn’t currently have an Internet connection, you’ll need to find a computer where you can get to the following URL: http://plugable.com/products/usb-nano-11n/driver. This will take you to the drivers page for the Realtek 8818CUS chipset that’s at the heart of the USB-NANO-11N.

Screen shot of the Windows, Mac, and Linux drivers download page for the USB-NANO-11N

Download the drivers you need–they’re available for Windows XP, Vista, and 7; Mac OS X 10.4 and up; plus versions of Linux (Note: the Android drivers are for developers only)–to some kind of portable media (USB drive, CD) that you can use on the computer where you need to install them.

Once the drivers are in place (a restart may be needed), plug in the USB-NANO-11N, and you should be good to go. The adapter works in USB 2.0 and 1.1 ports, though you’ll get faster throughput in a USB 2.0 port. When you have an active connection, an LED at the top of the unit will flash intermittently.

The driver install also will add Realtek’s USB wireless LAN utility to you computer, which allows you to manage the adapter’s settings, set up usage profiles, and see info about the state of your network connection. It’s all the same functionality that’s available through your computer’s operating system but in one handy location for the USB-NANO-11N.

As noted, the adapter supports the 802.11n draft WiFi specification for data transmission in the 2.4Ghz band, but it is compatible with the older 802.11b and g specifications. It also supports the common WiFi security protocols (64/128 bit WEP, WPA/WPA2, WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK and Wi-Fi Protected Setup).

Additional Uses
In future posts we’ll look at some other uses of the USB-NANO-11N, such as

• adding a second network adapter to a PC to use it for Internet connection sharing and
• getting all your wireless devices on the same 802.11 spec for improved WiFi speed.

If you have pre-sales or support questions about the USB-NANO-11N, don’t hesitate to write to us at support@plugable.com. We’re here to help.

Plugable USB Wireless Adapter – 802.11N – 1T1R – Nano Size – Short Range – Windows, Mac, Linux (Realtek Chipset)

Product Details

For Plugable’s USB 2.0 products with DisplayLink chips, however, we’re still recommending earlier DisplayLink Windows driver version 5.6 M1 (5.6.31870.0), because of its proven stability. For now, Windows Update will still deliver 5.6 M1 automatically when you plug a Plugable device in.

Here’s a little background on why:

DisplayLink’s newest 6.x drivers work with all DisplayLink chips (USB 2.0 and the coming USB 3.0 generation), but the primary development focus of version 6.x has been on enabling the coming USB 3.0 generation of products. Perhaps as a result, there are some minor tradeoffs for USB 2.0 generation devices.

Here are the tradeoffs we’re following:

1) On a few systems, screens may go blank after returning from a reboot or power event. The cause appears to be changes in the way display configuration information is stored with the 6.0 and 6.1 drivers – Windows and the drivers can get confused, and that confusion will persist across unplugs, reboots, etc (going back to 5.6 M1 is the solution in these cases)
2) The uninstaller on version 6.1 fails to uninstall from Windows’ Programs and Features (as a workaround, you can use the DisplayLink “cleaner” utility).
3) 5.6 M1 is the last release where DisplayLink’s logs are readable. When we hit any strange problems on a customer’s system, our ability to analyze the logs to find the underlying problems (and solutions) is one of the ways we try to provide better support for Plugable brand devices.

All that said, we run the latest drivers on nearly all of our own systems (so we can stay up to date with the latest developments), and generally they’re great. So if there are any 6.x features or fixes that are relevant to you, feel free to download and install 6.1 M0 or later to give it a try. You can always download the latest DisplayLink driver here. And we expect that with one of the coming releases, we’ll push forward our recommendation to the latest version.

For those considering the latest versions, here’s the features and fixes DisplayLink has delivered since 5.6 M1 (as of version 6.1 M0). We’ve cut down the list to just those appear to be relevant to USB 2.0 devices.

New features since 5.6 M1 (as of 6.1 M0):

- Improved video smoothness for DL-1×0, DL-1×5 and DL-3×00 series
- Improved frame rate
- Reduced CPU utilization
- DisplayLink Tray applet enhancements

(Note these are generally subtle improvements)

New fixes since 5.6 M1 (as of 6.1 M0):

Sometimes the DisplayLink screen will remain blank when the device is
re-plugged after having been disconnected during power save. (11708)

Moving a mouse over full-screen video playback causes quality to drop. (12409)

Sometimes DisplayLink screen comes on in clone mode instead of extending when
connecting the device for the very first time. (10217)

Sometimes video may freeze on DisplayLink monitor. (11333)

Other miscellaneous fixes

There are a bunch of exciting things about the new Celluon Magic Cube Laser Keyboard:

• It’s shocking to see a keyboard projected onto any table, and be able to type in thin air (that was also true of its predecessor, the Celluon LaserKey CL850)
• You can connect to any PC or mobile with either with USB or Bluetooth. It uses a battery in wireless mode. That battery charges via its included USB cable
• It now has a mouse mode with multi-touch support for Windows 7 (Doesn’t support Mac or iOS multitouch)

But the really important thing about the new Magic Cube is it’s now driverless: It uses the standard Bluetooth HID profile and standard USB HID class, so for whatever you connect it to, it just sees a standard USB keyboard or mouse (which have always used HID). No drivers, no fuss.

That makes the new Magic Cube work with nearly all devices out there that can use a standard Bluetooth or USB keyboard: iPad, iPod, iPhone, Windows, Mac, Linux, and lots of other mobiles and devices.

iOS devices, in particular, are well-matched because the built-in auto-correct is a great help for improving accuracy (which is the main remaining downside of a projection keyboard — it takes getting used to).

If you’ve never had the chance to try a laser keyboard, take a look at this video to see it in action.

It’s amazing how few people know about the possibilities of turning one computer into many with simple USB terminals. We’re hoping more stories like this will get the word out!

To Whom It May Concern:

I want to take a second and thank you for the support you have given me. It is not often I find such good people that take time out of their busy day to help! Thank you so much!

I voluntarily single handedly support a small non-profit K-12 school. A little IT history on that school was that as of early 2009, I started getting involved with the IT Infrastructure. In reviewing their systems, I noted that they were running a Microsoft Small Business Server 2000 to which was only used to serve IP address and keep some files in a fileshare. The server had been installed in 2000 to which had not been maintained since then except for the occasional reboot and update.

In 2009, Microsoft announced that they would discontinue the support of Microsoft Server 2000 in July. Knowing this, I began having meetings communicating to the staff of the impacts of running a server without having support for major things like updates. I helped them decide that we should upgrade the infrastructure to Microsoft Small Business Server 2008 as well as source a new server to run the software.

While the server was on order, we began updating the entire wiring infrastructure of the network cabling to consistently possess at least Cat 5 cable.

I installed the new server as well as setup the ability to use Microsoft Exchange Server, Sharepoint Server, and a file Server. Also, I made sure to install a raid system as well as a nightly backup system. For the first time, the staff had email addresses with the school name! The staff we all very excited to use the new system.

Noting that there were many old computers that were at least 7-10 yrs old, we sourced and installed Microsoft Server 2008 in a Hyper-V session in order to use Terminal Server, now called Remote Desktop Services. On that Terminal Server, I installed all of Microsoft Office 2010 as well as other pertinent programs needed for the school. This allowed a repurposing of all the older computers as well as combining the old computers with new flatscreen monitors. The speed of the Terminal Server made the staff feel like they all had brand new computers!

I had been using the Comcast Modem as a firewall and knew that the firewall needed to be upgraded. The school needed a way to track everyone on the internet as well as the capability to filter the internet. I sourced a smaller used HP DL380 server to run an all-encompassing web filter, spam filter, firewall, routing, etc., named Untangle. This also sped up the internet experience as Untangle has the ability to cache websites.

Next on the list was to revive a computer lab that had not been run in over 2 years. There were several questions to be answered in order to ascertain how the lab was going to be built with these criteria in mind:

· Cost Effective

· Ease of maintenance

· As Energy Efficient as Possible(green)

· Reliable

· Ease of use

With that in mind, we came up with a few options. The first option was to utilize the computers from the old lab with a Terminal Server session. Because the base software of the computers was Windows 2000, they would have to at least be upgraded to Windows XP for security and Microsoft support reasons. Because of the expense and support needed, we decided against doing that option. Specifically we did not meet the goals of:

· Ease of maintenance

· Reliable

· Ease of use

The next option was to utilize “nettop” computers, specifically the Foxconn NetBox-nT525 nt525-0H0W-B-A-NA-BOX that we could mount to the back of a monitor. We then sourced 10 refurbished Dell 19″ monitors. I purchase one of the mini computers for test. I installed both Linux Edubuntu as well as Windows 7. The problems with this route are that it did not meet our objectives because:

· Not as cost effective because of the need for 10 computers

· Increased maintenance need

· Having to learn Linux by the staff therefore not easy to use

· No ability to use Remote Desktop into the computers (would have had to install VNC)

The third option was to install a dumb terminal system. Two systems were looked at including Linux Userful and Microsoft Multipoint Server 2011.

I admit that I am not near as intelligent on Linux as I am Microsoft products. For Linux, I know just enough to get me into trouble I think. I can do almost anything I want with any Microsoft OS and almost all software. With Linux, I have to struggle and look up internet blogs to help me with basic functionality. This is the second main reason I chose Microsoft over Linux.

We ultimately chose Microsoft Multipoint Server 2011 and here is why: I guess I could really boil it down to be selfish. Because I need to be able to support the school, I want the capability to remotely connect to any user computer either interfaced with the user or totally without the user in order to solve issues. Also would like to remote to apply updates and normal/general server maintenance.

The server we purchased to run the environment was a Dell R210. It is a 2.93 ghz Xeon Hyperthreaded Quad Core with 16 gb 1333mhz ram. It should be able to do whatever we want in this situation, right? Wrong. I also sourced 5 DC-125 units from Plugable to test the server for the needs of the school.

I then installed Microsoft Multipoint onto the server as well as all the displaylink software required. I tried plugging in a DC-125 to which did not work as expected. I then began troubleshooting.

After 3 weeks of troubleshooting with Dell and Microsoft, I got nowhere near making the system run. I then began consulting with Plugable. They had absolutely phenomenal support. Very quickly we determined the situation was caused by the 1998 technology used by Dell for the video card.

I then sourced an ATI 2270 video card and placed it in the only open slot. It worked! Yeah! If it wasn’t for Plugable’s awesome support, I would have had a very expensive paperweight as well as the need to go out an purchase 10 computers with Operating Systems!

Let’s talk about GREEN! The lab is only running one computer instead of 11. The server is running an LED monitor which is 1/10th the power requirements of LCD. The ATI 2270 video card only uses max 17.5 watts of power. All combined, the lab requires very little power requirements than what would have been.

As for the rest of the criteria, it was all met.

So, this is where we stand in the school, an operating lab based on Microsoft Multipoint OS connected to Active Directory and the internet. Have tested the system with 2 workstations running full screen Hulu and one running full screen YouTube and the frame rates never dropped as well as sound/video never got out of sync. I am extremely happy with this setup!

About me, I am an “old” computer guy I guess. Sometimes I still prefer DOS over windows. My favorite computer language is Assembler. 95% of everything I have learned has been on my own eventhough I do have a degree in CIS. I don’t admit readily to others that I know anything but I normally get tasked to fix everyone’s computer. (I gotta stop doing that or at least charge.) In my home, I am running a full server with exchange, IIS (I can run Apache just fine), and other network technologies which is where I have learned the most and have been doing this for more than 10 yrs. My entire family, internal and extended, all syncs their phones to my exchange server for email, for free.

As you can see, I love computing platforms as well as the social aspect. I also love to be on the bleeding edge. Companies like Plugable really go the extra mile to help everyone, especially to support the needs of a non-profit school. I love Plugable and their DC-125!

Get the driver from: http://plugable.com/drivers/prolific/

You’ll want to download the driver and unzip it anywhere on your desktop. Once you have, double click on it to start the installation.

The installation is relatively simple and no questions are asked. When it’s done you should see something like this:

Now go ahead and connect the adapter. You should get a pop-up looking like this:

Finally Windows should report that the device has been installed:

On Device Manager you should be looking at something like this:

• Now, If you want to change the COM port assignment, here’s how to change the COM port for a USB Serial adapter on Windows 7