Most Windows notebook computers power management settings will default to putting the computer to sleep with the lid closed, regardless of any external displays, keyboard, or mouse connected to the computer. If this is happening but you would prefer the system to remain active with the lid closed utilizing the external display or displays, these settings can be changed by performing the following:

For Windows 10:

1. Start by right-clicking on the Start button and select Power Options from the menu.
2. From the right side of the Power Options settings page, select the blue link for Additional power settings

   

3. From the choices present on the left-hand side of the Power Options window, please click on Choose what closing the lid does
4. Make sure the setting for When I close the lid under the Plugged In column is set to Do Nothing

   

5. Click the Save Changes button and restart the system (making sure that the laptop’s power adapter is also connected) and test the behavior again.

For Windows 11:

1. Start by right-clicking on the Start button and select Power Options from the menu.

   

2. In the upper left corner of the settings window, in the search box, type "lid" then select Change what closing the lid does from the search results

   

3. Make sure the setting for When I close the lid under the Plugged In column is set to Do Nothing

   

4. Click the Save Changes button to apply the new settings.

Closing the lid should no longer put the computer into sleep mode when an external display and power source is connected, instead one of the external displays should now become the Primary display with the desktop icons instead of the laptop's built-in display.

The lid may still need to be opened to perform the following tasks:

• To power on the computer from a fully powered off state
• To log into the computer if logged out or if the computer is restarted with the lid closed
• To wake the computer from a deep sleep state ( hibernation, or Windows hybrid sleep states )

This article applies to Plugable Thunderbolt 3 docking stations such as these:

• TBT3-UDZ Thunderbolt™ 3 and USB-C Dual Display Dock with 96W Host Charging
• TBT3-UDC1 Thunderbolt™ 3 and USB-C Dual Display Docking Station with 60W Host Charging
• TBT3-UDC3 Thunderbolt™ 3 and USB-C Dual Display Dock with 96W Host Charging

For Thunderbolt 3 systems:

Some systems with Thunderbolt 3 support may only have the ability to connect a single display through the Thunderbolt 3 port. This is due to how the system manufacturer has configured the internal circuitry of the computer between the system graphics card and the system Thunderbolt 3 controller. To be specific, they have only routed one DisplayPort video line/stream from the graphics card to the TBT3 controller.

As an example of this, many Intel NUC systems only support a single display, see here for reference: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000021752/intel-nuc.html

We also see this configuration on many high end gaming laptops or desktop replacement workstation laptops that have one or more dedicated onboard video outputs. Unfortunately, this is often undocumented and you may need to contact your system manufacture to verify if they expect dual monitors will be supported over Thunderbolt 3.

Apple M1 and M2-based Macs (MacBook Air, Mac Mini, and MacBook Pro) only support a single display through Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C. (This limitation is a limitation of the M1 and M2 graphics card design.)

Please note that MacBook Air and MacBook Pro M3(base) can support up to two displays with the lid closed(clamshell) over Thunderbolt.

• macOS Sonoma 14.3 or later for MacBook Air M3 is required
• macOS Sonoma 14.6 or later for MacBook Pro M3 is required 

For USB-C systems:

Apple USB-C only systems (without Thunderbolt 3 support) like the 2015 MacBook Retina 12" can only support a single display or will show two screens with mirrored images. This is because Apple does not support DisplayPort MST (multi-stream) which our dock uses to take a single USB-C DisplayPort Alternate Mode video line and connect two displays through it.

Windows USB-C systems should support MST in most cases, if you're only able to connect a single display, please contact us via support@plugable.com for further assistance!

Based on customer reports and information online found after this update, it appears that there is a regression in macOS Big Sur 11.1 that is causing video output issues through Thunderbolt 3 devices like our dock such as only a single display works versus two working prior with macOS Big Sur 11.0.1, or video resolutions and/or refresh rates are incorrect (example: only 4K @ 30Hz possible vs expected 4K @ 60Hz).

We encourage you to report these issue to Apple using their feedback form located here: https://www.apple.com/feedback/macos.html

Unfortunately, to resolve this issue you'll need to restore to a previous backup of your system if available for macOS Big Sur 11.0.1 or wait until the next update from Apple.

There is a known issue with the Apple provided built in macOS Ethernet drivers for the Realtek RTL8153 USB 3.0 Ethernet chipset used in our dock (and many other docks and USB Ethernet adapters on the market). When put to sleep, the problematic driver creates an Ethernet broadcast storm which can overwhelm some Ethernet routers.

For macOS Catalina 10.15.x users, please contact us via support@plugable.com and we can provide you with an updated driver and installation instructions.

For macOS Big Sur 11.x users, this behavior can be rectified by updating the host system to macOS Big Sur version 11.3 (released by Apple on 4/26/2021).

If you are unable to install third party drivers for macOS 10.15.x or are unable to upgrade from macOS Big Sur 11.x to 11.3, we recommend to disable your Mac from sleeping to prevent this issue, or use WiFi instead of Ethernet until you are able to install the driver at a later date or upgrade to the new macOS version.

If you need further assistance feel free to contact us via support@plugable.com and we'll be happy to help!

For Thunderbolt 3 systems a longer cable can be used, but there are some important factors to consider. The longest passive Thunderbolt 3 cable rated for 40Gbps (required for dual displays via TBT3) at this time is already included and is 0.8m in length. Longer cables will need to be active cables. We don't sell any active cables but they are available at up to two meters.

For users with USB-C only systems a Thunderbolt 3 cable is not required. Instead, a longer USB 3.1 Gen 2 cable rated for 10Gbps can be used. We recommend no longer than 2m in length. However, due to the varying quality of USB-C cables on the market, a better alternative would be a 2m 20Gbps passive Thunderbolt 3 cable like our TBT3-20G2M: http://plugable.com/products/tbt3-20g2m

Please note: For docks with 60W (watts) Power Delivery charging capabilities a cable that supports 3A (amps) minimum is required. For docks that support greater than 60W (65W, 85W, 96W, 100W) charging, a 5A cable is required.

If your Windows laptop will not boot properly when a docking station is connected to the laptop, most often the cause is an external device connected to the docking station (for example an external USB storage drive) as opposed to the dock itself. 

If you are affected by this condition, please follow these steps in order to isolate the behavior further:

1. Disconnect all USB devices from the docking station and put them aside for the moment.
2. Disconnect any displays connected to the dock's video outputs.
3. Disconnect any audio devices connected to the dock's audio ports (if present).
4. Disconnect the Ethernet network cable from the dock's Ethernet port (if present).
5. The only remaining connections should be the dock's power adapter cable and the USB cable used to connect it to the laptop. No other external devices should be connected to the dock.
6. While in this state, reboot the laptop to test the behavior.
7. Assuming the laptop boots as expected, please reconnect each device back to the dock one at a time and reboot after each one to test the behavior again. Please reconnect the displays first, then the audio devices, then the Ethernet cable. Please reconnect any USB devices to the dock last, again rebooting after each one is added to test the behavior.

In our experience helping others, the most common cause of this behavior is an external USB storage drive connected to one of the dock's USB ports.  In some cases, a laptop may try to boot from an external storage drive by mistake as opposed to the laptop's built-in storage drive.  Since most external USB storage drives are not 'bootable', this can interrupt the boot process. 

If this behavior occurs, the most common way to mitigate the behavior is to access the laptop's System BIOS (also known as UEFI firmware) to change the 'boot order' settings to ensure that the laptop's internal storage drive is the first boot option.  Doing so helps ensure that the laptop will not try to boot from an external USB storage device. 

Every laptop system is different, so the best resource for accessing the System BIOS and changing the settings is the manual for the laptop provided by the laptop manufacturer.   

For Intel based MacBook Pro models with four Thunderbolt 3 ports, some users have found connecting the dock to the left or right side to be more stable than the other. Due to some variance in MacBook designs, we've found it is best to experiment with your particular setup to find what works well for you. With that said, there are some specific situations where a particular side may be inherently better:

1) Older MacBook Pro models have had varying capabilities depending on the side used:

• MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2016) delivers full Thunderbolt 3 performance on all four ports.
• MacBook Pro (13-inch,2016, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports) supports Thunderbolt 3 at full performance using the two left-hand ports. The two right-hand ports deliver Thunderbolt 3 functionality, but have reduced PCI Express bandwidth. Always plug higher-performance devices into the left-hand ports on MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2016, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports) for maximum data throughput.
• MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2016, Two Thunderbolt 3 Ports) delivers full Thunderbolt 3 performance on both ports.

2) It has been suggested for 16" MacBook Pro owners to connect to the right side for the best performance. ExtremeTech has a great article about why this is here: http://extremetech.com/computing/309802-charging-a-macbook-on-the-wrong-side-can-significantly-lower-its-performance 

3) It is also worth mentioning that per side of Thunderbolt 3 Intel based MacBooks, a maximum of two displays are supported. If using the dock on one side of the system for two displays, another display cannot be connected to the second Thunderbolt 3 port on that same side (this means Intel based MacBook Pros with only two ports will support only two displays).

Thunderbolt 3 MacBook Pros with four ports (two on each side) can support either two or four displays maximum depending on the system configuration. Intel graphics based four port models are limited to two displays only whereas AMD based graphics four port models can support four displays.

Example: You want to connect three or four displays to your four port AMD graphics based MacBook Pro, you will need to connect the dock to one side for two displays and the third or fourth displays must be connected to the opposite side of the system.

Note: Currently, M1 based Macs (MacBook Air, Mac Mini, and MacBook Pro) only support a single display through Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C. This is a limitation of the M1 graphics card design.

Please feel free to contact us at support@plugable.com if you have any questions!

From our testing as well as customers' experiences, our Thunderbolt 3 docks are not compatible with Thunderbolt add-in cards and often result in USB devices being not detected when connected to a Thunderbolt add-in card on a desktop PC.

Below is a list of power adapter models used by Plugable docking stations. We offer refurbished replacement power adapters on eBay as they are available for purchase, however, we may not have replacement power adapters available for all of our docking stations.

If the power adapter for your docking station or region is not listed, out of stock on eBay or if you have any other questions regarding replacement power adapters for our docks please contact us at support@plugable.com and we will be happy to assist further.

We offer a 30-day return period for our replacement power adapters listed on eBay.

When connecting to a monitor that accepts a USB-C input, from a docking station that outputs DisplayPort (such as the UD-6950, UD-6950Z, UD-6950H, TBT3-UDZ, TBT3-UDC3), you will need to use a DisplayPort to USB-C "Bi-Directional" cable. This is because many USB-C to DisplayPort cables are unidirectional and only send data in one direction, from USB-C source device to a DisplayPort input port on a monitor.

Additional information:

• Be sure to use a DisplayPort to USB-C cable that supports the 1.2 DisplayPort standard (or higher). 
• To ensure optimal performance the maximum recommended cable length should be no longer than 1.8 meters (6 feet).

An example of a DisplayPort to USB-C "Bi-Directional" cable can be seen here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081VK1KHV

The USB-C ports (excluding the host connection) on our TBT3-UDZ, TBT3-UDC3, and TBT3-UDC1 do not support video output. This means that USB-C/Thunderbolt monitors as well as USB-C video adapters will not output a display when connected to these ports.

Our TBT3-UD1-85W and TBT3-UD1-83 docks have a downstream Thunderbolt 3 port that can support video output up to 4K resolution @ 60Hz, so USB-C/Thunderbolt monitors as well as USB-C video adapters should output a display when connected to these ports.

If your package is missing one or more of the items that should be included with your Plugable dock (included items are listed on a chart on the side of the box), start by double checking if the part is still in the packaging. Pieces can occasionally get stuck in the corners under the main insert in the box.

If you are still unable to locate the piece, please contact support@plugable.com with the following information:

1.  Amazon Order ID (or other proof of purchase) associated with your Plugable device.

2. A description of the parts that are missing from your order.

3. Your preferred shipping address (and a phone number associated with that address).

4. The serial number of your Plugable Dock.

Most Plugable docks do not officially support monitors over 60Hz including 120Hz or 144Hz refresh rate unless otherwise specified on the Plugable product page or listing. 

DisplayLink USB Graphics technology and Silicon Motion based docking stations and graphics adapters, like our USB 3.0 dual display and USB Type-C triple display docking stations, are limited to 60Hz fresh rate by the USB graphics controller hardware.

USB Type-C DisplayPort Alternate Mode docking station and ports on our USB Type-C Triple Display Docking Stations can support higher refresh rates, but may be limited by the computer's capability and available bandwidth to the docking station.  Additionally, when paired with DisplayLink or Silicon Motion USB graphics, having displays at different refresh rates may reduce overall system performance.  Due to this we normally recommend limiting all connected displays to 60Hz refresh rate when using DisplayLink and Silicon Motion graphics technology with directly connected, or USB Type-C DisplayPort Alternate Mode controlled displays.

Monitors with refresh rates higher then 60Hz may be connected to a docking station operating at up to 60Hz, or connected directly on the computer's HDMI or DisplayPort to ensure the display is powered by the system's native GPU.

Unfortunately Plugable products do not support the Apple SuperDrive.

The Apple SuperDrive has stringent power requirements that can only be met by directly connecting the SuperDrive to your host laptop. As a result at this time Apple recommends only using their USB-C adapter cables. You can find more information on that here → How to connect the Apple USB SuperDrive

If you have purchased a Plugable product to use with your Apple SuperDrive, and would like some additional assistance please do not hesitate to reach out. You can do so by emailing support@plugable.com, or going to Plugable.com/Support.

Please Note

The below guide is an advanced troubleshooting step, and we do not recommend doing so unless you are comfortable manually altering files on your Apple product running macOS. You may not be able to perform the below troubleshooting step if you are unable to execute administrative credentials on your laptop. Please reach out to our support first if you do not wish to attempt the below instructions. You can do so at Plugable.com/Support

How to delete a specific Ethernet adapter from your Network devices on macOS

1. Click on the Apple logo in the top left corner of your primary monitor, and select ‘System Preferences’
2. Next select ‘Network’ in the ‘System Preferences' window.
3. In the now visible list, please select the Plugable Ethernet, or Thunderbolt Ethernet device that may not be working as expected.
4. Once selected click on the minus button in the bottom left of the network window.
5. Click on Apply in the bottom right.
6. Next click on the plus button in the bottom left of the network window, and add the previously removed device.
7. Click on Apply in the bottom right.
8. Test to see if this has resolved the unexpected behavior, and assure that your Ethernet is now working.
9. If this does not resolve the problem, please proceed to the next section (As noted previously the next section is for advanced users only!)

I am still unable to get my Ethernet connection working on my Mac

If this is the case please reach out to our support team. When you do please include a diagnostic log gathered using our PlugDebug tool (instructions are provided on the PlugDebug page). If you are not able to gather the PlugDebug diagnostics do not worry we are still here to help! Please reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com or Plugable.com/Support with a detailed description of your problem, and the model of Plugable product you are using.

We are often asked if it is okay to leave a notebook computer connected to one of our USB-C docking stations with Power Delivery for extended periods of time.  The short answer is yes, it is no different from leaving the laptop connected to the manufacturer's original USB-C power supply for the same time.  The long answer is yes for modern laptops, and maybe for older (1990s-early 2000s laptops) and involves going into the different battery technologies used in consumer electronics devices.

Another common question is if it is possible to use the docking station but to disable powering and charging the computer.  When a modern notebook computer runs on battery power it will often set the system to a reduced power state which may impact performance, or connected devices and we recommend always powering the computer when using a desktop docking station.  For all of our docking stations that provide power to the host computer this will not affect the lifespan of the computer's battery.

Modern Laptop Batteries: Lithium-Ion

Lithium-ion (li-ion) batteries are found in a wide range of consumer electronics from notebook computers and cell phones, to electric cars, power tools, and wearable electronics like wireless earbuds.  Li-ion offers fast charging, high-current discharging, fairly long service live compared to other rechargeable battery technologies and are relatively inexpensive.

The life-span of a rechargeable battery depends on many factors including age, temperature history, charging patterns, the chemical composition of the specific battery, and usage.  For example batteries stored at 100% charge will degrade faster than batteries stored at 50% charge, this is why most consumer electronics devices arrive from the manufacturer with between 25% to 75% charge.

Lithium-ion batteries are consumable components, however in most modern computers, cell phones, and tablets these are not user serviceable components.  To help maintain the battery all modern computers and most consumer electronics will include battery charge and protection circuits.  These can be fairly simple, charging up the battery at preset rates depending on the charge level to help maintain the battery life, or complex software controlled charging that monitors battery temperature, voltage and current draw to maintain the fastest charging while maintaining the battery longevity.

Modern notebook computers can be left connected to the original power cable or a docking station with charging capability for extended periods, and do not benefit from regular discharge/recharge cycles.  Our docking stations with charging capability rely on USB Type-C Power Delivery to power and charge compatible computers.  USB Type-C Power Delivery is a negotiated charging protocol between the host computer and the docking station or USB Type-C power supply, this allows the computer to draw only the power it requires, and even select the best voltage level for powering the computer.  In combination with a computer's built-in battery charging controller the computer is capable of maintaining the battery's optimal state even when left connected to a power source for an extended period of time.

Legacy Laptop Batteries: NiCad and NiMH

Older laptops, from the 1990s and some early 2000s, as well as some consumer electronics, and most rechargeable AA or AAA battery replacements use Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad) or Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries.  These batteries are slower to charge and discharge than li-ion batteries, and require very simple charge controllers, and in some cases can even be trickle-charged ( very low-current continuous charging ) if desired.

These batteries generally don't have smart charging controllers and to prolong the life of the battery required "training" or fully discharging and recharging the battery every so often.  Many laptop manufacturers recommended fully charging and discharging a new laptop 2-3 times to train the battery, this is not necessary with modern laptops.

Conclusion

Modern notebook batteries are managed by the computer's built-in battery charging circuit, and require little to no user intervention to maintain optimal battery health.  It does not harm the battery to leave the computer connected to an external power supply, so long as the computer is being used regularly.  If the computer is to be stored for a prolonged period then discharging the battery to between 50-75% can help to maintain the battery life.

Batteries are consumable components and degrade over time, however modern notebook computers can extend the battery life generally to meet or exceed the life of the computer's other electronic components.

It's not uncommon for users to notice a certain level of heat generation from electronics and by extension, Plugable products during operation. In this knowledge base article, we'll explore the reasons behind this heat generation and why it is considered a normal experience within reasonable limits.

Electronics, by their nature, generate heat during operation. This is primarily a result of the electrical current flowing through various components, such as integrated circuits, transistors, and other electronic elements. As Plugable products are designed to efficiently process and transfer data (among other functionality), some level of heat generation is inherent.

Factors Influencing Heat Generation:

1. Power Consumption: The power consumption of a device directly influences the amount of heat it generates. Higher power usage, especially during data transfer or charging processes, can lead to increased heat.
2. Enclosure Design: The design of the product's enclosure and its ability to dissipate heat play a crucial role. Adequate ventilation and heat sinks are often incorporated to manage and disperse generated heat effectively. This is evident in our TBT3-UDZ and TBT4-UDZ designs. The metal case in these docks are designed to function as a heatsink with thermal pads placed throughout the enclosure. This allows heat dissipation from inside to the outside, but will also make it feel as if the device is “too hot”. 
3. Ambient Temperature: The external environment may also play a role. Higher ambient temperatures can contribute to increased perceived heat from the product. This means that summer temperatures may increase the heat generation of not just Plugable products, but many other electronic devices.

Normal Heat Levels: While it is normal for electronic devices to generate heat, Plugable products are engineered to operate within safe temperature ranges. We conduct rigorous testing to ensure that the heat generated during normal operation falls within industry-standard safety parameters. While not all products are or need to be UL certified, we try to go by UL guidelines for thermal readings. The UL threshold is 77C/170.6F, and we aim for around 71C/160F.

Tips for Users:

1. Ventilation: Ensure that Plugable products have sufficient ventilation around them. Avoid placing them in enclosed spaces where heat dissipation may be impeded.
2. Usage Patterns: Intensive tasks such as high-speed data transfer or charging multiple devices simultaneously may result in increased heat generation. This is generally normal but may be more noticeable in such scenarios.
3. Accessories: A number of our devices will allow for the connection of USB accessories and as such, these will require power. If too many “power-hungry” devices are connected, this will cause the device to run much hotter than expected. Be sure to keep in mind the power limits of your dock/device.

In conclusion, experiencing heat from Plugable products is a normal aspect of their operation. Users can rest assured that we prioritize the safety and efficiency of our devices. By understanding the factors influencing heat generation and following simple usage guidelines, users can make the most of their Plugable products while ensuring a reliable and efficient user experience.

If you have installed your DisplayLink-enabled docking station or graphics adapter and downloaded the DisplayLink software, but see that no displays are working properly, you may need to enable “Screen Recording”. In this guide, we will go over a short list of steps to enable this permission, and get your DisplayLink device up and running!

As of macOS Catalina (version 10.15), DisplayLink drivers that are installed require that the “Screen Recording” permission be granted by the user. While this permission, when used in conjunction with DisplayLink is not recording in a traditional sense, it does allow DisplayLink to access the pixels it needs to render images (mirrored or extended). It then sends these pixels over USB from the computer to the display connected to your DisplayLink connected device.

Note: It does not capture or send any data.

During the installation process for the DisplayLink drivers, you will be requested to allow “Screen Recording” for DisplayLink. Additionally, you may see a notification within the DisplayLink application and when a new device is connected. However, we understand sometimes these may get lost in a sea of information and other notifications.

How do I know if the Screen Recording permission hasn’t been set? Reference the image below to check in your “Privacy & Security” settings

If you have not enabled “Screen Recording”, please follow these few instructions to enable it.

1. Click on the Apple icon (defaults to the top left corner of your screen) and select “System Preferences
2. Navigate to and click “Security & Privacy”
3. In this window, select “Privacy”
4. A list will be presented, scroll until you find “Screen Recording” and click on it
5. Displayed on the bottom left, there is a lock icon, click on this to make changes
6. If prompted, login using your computer credentials to make changes
7. Check the box next to DisplayLink Manager
8. You will be promoted to “Quit & Reopen”, click this button
9. Click on the lock icon once more to save your changes

Note: Some of these steps may vary slightly based on your macOS version

You should now be able to see your displays on your docking station or adapter. If you have completed the above steps successfully and still do not see your displays, please be sure to reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com.

The Windows Firewall may block some networking features when the local network is not set to Private.  This article will describe the process for setting the local network, either wired Ethernet or Wi-Fi to be a Private network.

Windows 11

1 - Connect the computer to the network, either wired or wireless

2 - Open the Windows Settings - right-click on the Start Menu and select “Settings” from the pop-up menu

3 - On the left column select “Network & internet”

For Wired Networks

4 - Select the “Ethernet” option

5 - The connected network should be expanded, if not click on “Network Connected" to expand the section

6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs

For Wi-Fi Networks

4 - Select the “Wi-Fi” option

5 - Select your Wi-Fi network name “properties”

6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs

Windows 10

1 - Connect the computer to the network, either wired or wireless

2 - Open the Windows Settings - right-click on the Start Menu and select “Settings” from the pop-up menu

3 - Select “Network & Internet” fro the bottom section

4 - Select the “Ethernet” option from the left pane

5 - Select the “Connected” network from the right pane

6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs

Windows PowerShell

If the option does not show up in the Windows Settings GUI, or if you prefer to use the terminal.

1 - Open a new terminal: Right-click on the Start Menu and select “Terminal” 

2 - Run the following command to list the available networks

Get-NetConnectionProfile

PS C:\Users\plugable> Get-NetConnectionProfile
Name                     : Network
InterfaceAlias           : Ethernet Instance 0
InterfaceIndex           : 7
NetworkCategory          : Private
DomainAuthenticationKind : None
IPv4Connectivity         : Internet
IPv6Connectivity         : NoTraffic

3 - Run the following command to set the network to Private

Set-NetConnectionProfile -Name Network -NetworkCategory Private

Where “Network” is the network name from step #2 and “Private” can be either “Public" or “Private”

 A common question we receive is whether it is okay to use a dock or hub that provides different wattage compared to the power adapter included with the laptop, especially if the dock or hub provides less power than the OEM charger. Short answer: for most use cases, it’s fine! And when using standards-compliant docks, hubs, and chargers like those from Plugable, it’s always safe.

When considering whether a dock or hub has enough power to charge a host, it is helpful to understand how little power is consumed most of the time you’re using your system.

Some details why 60W charging is more than sufficient for typical workloads:

All laptops will come with a power supply directly from the manufacturer. This power supply usually supports the maximum charging rate that the host can support (45W, 60W, 100W, 140W, etc.). However, modern systems are designed to be power efficient while managing their power consumption dynamically, typically using just a fraction of their maximum power draw under typical workloads. Additionally, to preserve battery longevity, most devices will reduce charging rate even when a higher wattage charger is connected. Note that Gaming or Workstation laptops, typically including 180W+ power adapters, may have special power requirements.

Even during high-power tasks such as video editing, hosts may only pull greater than 60W for brief periods of time. In these instances, you may notice the battery charges slower, or in some cases even slowly discharges. This is not indicative of a faulty power supply or a problem, just a difference in power consumption vs power delivery.

In some cases, for laptops that can charge at higher than 60W over USB-C, it can take longer for the 60W charger to fully charge a host from 0-100% than a 100W charger for example. However, this is usually only relevant for the first 50 or so percent, as the host limits the charging rate exponentially as the battery gets closer to being fully charged. In the 80-100% range, laptops are typically charging at less than 15W. This means that in a configuration where you are connected to the power adapter for long periods of time, like an entire work day, the 60W charger will be functionally identical to a higher wattage power adapter.

Windows laptops – particularly those from Dell, HP, or Lenovo –  may send pop-ups in the OS or messages on boot warning you about a lower charging rate. The messages could be similar to the following:

• “You have plugged in a lower wattage power adapter, USB-C charging device, or power pass-through device. Your system will continue to work, but may not perform at its peak.”
• “Weak charging state, please check power charger.”
• “The AC power adapter wattage and type cannot be determined. The battery may not charge. The system will adjust the performance to match the power available.”
• “The connected AC adapter has a lower wattage than the recommended model – Please connect the AC adapter which was shipped with the system for best system performance”
• “For full performance, connect a higher power adapter”

Despite these warnings, most business and consumer laptops will indeed continue to charge with a lower wattage charger connected, and the messages can often be disabled in your laptop’s BIOS settings.

All this to say that in most use cases, the differences between 60W and higher wattage chargers are minimal, and 60W charging is likely enough to charge most laptops!
 

Plugable SKUs that feature 60W charging: TBT4-HUB3C, USB4-HUB3A, TBT3-UDC1, UD-3900PDZ, UD-6950PDZ, UD-MSTH2, UD-MSTHDC, USBC-PS-60W

Overview

With the release of Apple’s M3 CPU chips and the Sonoma 14.6 update your base MacBook Air and MacBook Pro systems with M3 chips can now host two external displays natively in clamshell mode. This guide will walk you through the process of setting up and using two external displays with the lid closed on your MacBook Air or MacBook Pro equipped with an Apple M3 chip.

Requirements

Before getting started, ensure you have the following:

• MacBook Air or MacBook Pro with an Apple M3 chip.
• macOS Sonoma 14.3 or later for an M3 MacBook Air or macOS Sonoma 14.6 or later for an M3 MacBook Pro.
• Two external displays with compatible video inputs (e.g., HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C).
  • A dock or graphics adapter can be used as well.
• External keyboard and mouse (wired or wireless).
• Power adapter or power source for your MacBook
  • A docking station that provides adequate charge can be used in place of the native power adapter, be sure to check the wattage your dock provides.

Steps to Set Up Dual External Displays with the Lid Closed

1. Set Up Your External Keyboard and Mouse

• If you’re using a wired keyboard and mouse, connect them directly to your MacBook or Plugable dock.
• For wireless peripherals, ensure they are paired with your MacBook and functioning properly.
• An AC adapter/power cable of some kind will also need to be connected for clamshell mode to function properly. This adapter can be one from a docking station or the included Apple adapter.

2. Connect Your Displays

• Connect the first external display to your MacBook using the appropriate cable (e.g., HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C)
• Close your laptop’s lid.
• Connect the second external display using a similar method.
• Ensure both displays are powered on and set to the correct input source.

3. Configure Display Settings

• Open System Settings on your MacBook.
• Go to Displays.
• You should see both external displays listed. Arrange them according to your preference by dragging the display icons.
• Adjust the resolution, refresh rate, and other settings as needed.

4. Enable "Clamshell Mode" (Lid Closed Mode)

• With your external displays connected and set up, close the lid of your MacBook.
• Your MacBook will automatically switch to "Clamshell Mode," where the internal display turns off, and the external displays become your primary screens.
• Ensure your MacBook is connected to a power source to prevent it from entering sleep mode.

5. Check the Display Arrangement

• With the lid closed, check that the external displays are functioning as expected.
• If necessary, re-open the Displays settings to adjust the arrangement, resolution, or other preferences.

Troubleshooting Tips

• No Display on External Monitors: If the external displays are not showing anything, open the lid of your MacBook and check the connections.
• MacBook Sleeps When Lid Is Closed: Make sure your MacBook is connected to a power adapter. Clamshell Mode requires the MacBook to be plugged into an external power source.
• Performance Issues: If you experience lag or performance drops, try lowering the resolution or refresh rate of the external displays.

Thunderbolt Dock Users

With these steps, one can use Plugable Thunderbolt docks to enjoy a dual-display setup without the need for additional software installation. The dock leverages the native capabilities of the MacBook Air M3 and MacBook Pro M3, providing a straightforward and efficient solution for expanding your workspace with additional USB ports, audio, and ethernet (as well as the dual displays).

Additional Resources

If you should need any assistance with your setup, please feel free to reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com.